Legendary Sends + Injury Prevention Tips
From benchmark V16s to Norway’s iconic Move, see how Friction Labs athletes are raising the bar—and learn how to protect your own progression with a bonus injury prevention guide by Dr. Miguel Zevallos.
Sung Su Lee — Grand Illusion (V16), Little Cottonwood Canyon
9/1/25
Traveling across the world from Korea to Salt Lake City, Sung Su Lee set his sights on some of the area’s most infamous climbs. Surrounded by a strong crew of friends, he quickly turned his attention to Grand Illusion (V16). In just a handful of sessions, Sung Su pieced together one of the hardest problems in the country — a testament to his power and precision on rock.
About Grand Illusion
Established in 2020 by Nathaniel Coleman, Grand Illusion instantly cemented its reputation as one of the hardest and proudest boulders in the U.S. The steep, overhanging granite compression line demands finger strength, body tension, and perfection on every attempt. Since its first ascent, it has become a benchmark of modern American bouldering and a coveted prize for the strongest climbers in the world.
Beckett Hsin — Creature from the Black Lagoon (V16), RMNP
9/7/25
At just 15 years old, Beckett Hsin sent Creature from the Black Lagoon (V16) in Upper Chaos Canyon, just weeks before his 16th birthday. He described the process as one of the most surreal climbing experiences he’s ever had. Instead of over-fixating on performance, Beckett embraced each session as a chance to enjoy climbing and stay present — a mindset that helped him unlock his first V16 and continue his “age-to-grade” streak.
About Creature from the Black Lagoon
First climbed by Daniel Woods in 2016, Creature from the Black Lagoon is one of Rocky Mountain National Park’s proudest and most iconic testpieces. The steep, gymnastic roof requires body tension, power, and precision in equal measure. Widely regarded as a benchmark of the grade, it has quickly become a rite of passage for the world’s strongest boulderers.
Dylan Chuat — Move (5.15b/c), Flatanger, Norway
8/17/25
Dylan Chuat just completed his hardest sport climb to date with the legendary Move in Flatanger’s Hanshelleren Cave. From the start, Dylan felt the route was within reach — but the immense length and steepness soon demanded a new level of endurance.
Bad weather shut down progress, but instead of stepping away, Dylan committed to the process. He trained through link-ups, tackled other big lines like Change P1 (9a/+) and Illusionist (9a), and built momentum. Slowly he pushed higher, falling agonizingly close to the final boulder.
When it all came together, Dylan described being in total flow: the 9a approach pitch felt like a warm-up, and he soared through sequences that once felt impossible. Near the chains, with forearms screaming, he barely held on — clipping the anchors in disbelief, calling the experience “magic.”
What makes this ascent stand out isn’t just the grade, but the community behind it. Friends encouraged him daily, and his partner Lisa supported him throughout. As Dylan put it, this wasn’t just his achievement — it was theirs.
About Move
First established by Adam Ondra in 2013 at 5.15b/c, Move was among the hardest routes in the world. The 55-meter line links an intense 9a approach pitch (Little Badder) into a brutal series of boulder problems deep in the cave. With its mix of endurance, tension, and power, it remains a global benchmark climbed by only a handful of the very best.
Photo credits: Alex Guerin
Bonus Finger Injury Prevention Guide:
Dr. Miguel Zevallos from Climbing Rehab has put together this sheet with informative distinctions between the most common injuries climbers encounter.
